Have you ever wondered why your stitches, seams, or rounds look slanted? After long research and many hours of testing along with our testing team at IraRott.com, I would like to share our results and ideas.
Based on information from our polls that we collected during the past 4 years through different sources, the majority of crocheters work their stitches using YARN OVER (YO) in every step of making a stitch. We call this style “Classic” or “YO” crocheting as most educational sources use this method for teaching.
However, there is a large number of crocheters (including myself), who work crochet stitches using the HOOK OVER (HO) rule, which is basically holding your yarn under the hook in one of the steps & all the other steps of the stitch remain with YO. We named this method “Self-Compensated” or “HO” & I will explain my reasons below.
Let’s take a look at some examples based on double crochet (DC) stitches as DC is the most common stitch that requires corrections in certain circumstances. The instructions and videos below are given for both – right & left handed crocheting.
- CLASSIC (YO) DC: YO, insert hook in next stitch, YO & pull working yarn through the stitch; [YO & pull through 2 loops on the hook] 2 times
- SELF-COMPENSATED (HO) DC: YO, insert hook in next stitch, HO & pull working yarn through the stitch; [YO & pull through 2 loops on the hook] 2 times
Other than YO vs HO, what are the main differences between the Classic & Self-Compensated DC stitches? When crocheting in the round, we’ve noticed that Classic stitches are naturally straight but the seam is slanted; however Self-Compensated stitches are naturally slanted but the seam is straight. The reason for the slanted seam in Classic crochet is that the stitches are not placed exactly on top of each other, but are slightly off-centered. However, Self-Compensated crochet does not have that issue since the stitches are naturally slanted to the opposite direction from the offset stitch placement, which compensates slanting & makes the seam straight.
Symmetrically designed patterns that are worked in the round are often tricky for Classic crocheters as the offset stitch placement breaks the symmetry of entire piece. However, it is not an issue for Self-compensated style & finished pieces are always straight and symmetrical.
On a good note, the offset of the Classic stitch placement would only be noticeable for working in the round. There are no issues for working in rows as slanting is compensated in every row by your work direction & the edges are always straight. Also, Classic DC stitches look straight & beautiful when working in rows. Meanwhile, Self-Compensated stitches are naturally slanted, but it will not slant the edges when working in rows.
Which method works best? I would say the one you are used to, but there is always room for trying something new. It took me just a few minutes to switch my style when I first tried crocheting with YO. I can now easily go from one style to the other depending on my projects without a difference in my speed & tension. Nevertheless, we noticed that it was more complicated to work HO for those who are used to YO originally.
If you are a Classic crocheter, I hope these options will help you with the symmetry & straight seams of your future projects that are worked in the round:
Even if you can’t get the hang of HO from the first try due to the habits developed through the years or you do not see an instant result, just keep trying! You might need to try playing with your tension or hold your yarn & hook differently. Remember, practice makes perfect!
BACK & FORTH ALTERATION
Much like when you work in rows & the offsetting is compensated by the direction of your work in every row, you can alter patterns that are worked in the round so that one round is worked on right side (RS) & then turn to work the following round on wrong side (WS). You will need to convert every other round of the pattern for working backwards, in the direction from the end towards the beginning of the round. Converting is easy with a diagram reference, but you can convert any written instructions as well.
Here is an example of altering RS round to WS round:
- RS (ORIGINAL): ch 2; 2 dc in same st as join; dc in next 26 sts; [2 dc in next st, dc in next 6 sts] 2 times; 2 dc in next 2 sts; [dc in next 6 sts, 2 dc in next st] 2 times; dc in next 26 sts; [2 dc in next st, dc in next 6 st] 2 times; 2 dc in next st; [2 dc in next st, dc in next 6 sts] 2 times; join = 124 sts
- WS (CONVERTED): ch 2; [dc in next 6 sts, 2 dc in next st] 2 times; 2 dc in next st; [dc in next 6 st, 2 dc in next st] 2 times; dc in next 26 sts; [2 dc in next st, dc in next 6 sts] 2 times; 2 dc in next 2 sts; [ dc in next 6 sts, 2 dc in next st] 2 times; dc in next 26 sts; 2 dc in same st as join; join = 124 sts & now TURN to RS.
If your crochet piece turned out asymmetrical, you can always try to rescue your work by wet blocking.
- Soak your finished crochet piece in warm water (soaking works better that spray blocking in this case).
- Gently squeeze excess moisture out, then roll it in a towel to absorb moisture.
- Lay the piece flat on a blocking board or interlocking play mat. Shape & stretch until it looks straight.
- Rotate & flip periodically to ensure even drying. Please keep in mind that the drying process might take from 2-3 hours outdoors under open sun in the summer or up to several days indoors, depending on the temperature & humidity level.
I hope you found our research helpful and some of these tips will work for you. It would be great to hear about your experiences and to know what is your natural way of crocheting.
I would also like to say THANK YOU to our FABULOUS testing team, we really appreciate your willingness to help and your kind assistance throughout this project. I’m very grateful & I couldn’t have done it without you!